holley sniper efi iac problems

Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. Going back to what you said. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. Please let us know how this works out for you! With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. Without it you are working in the dark. I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. you have it set. That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. You'll be amazed at how much of this just "goes away" when you drive it enough. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to I appreciate everything you are saying. It will drop down to 400 RPM then climb 500 and then shoot to 900 and then come back sometimes two or three times then catch it self an idle just fine again. Holley have given a new unit. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. Does that make sense to you? I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. I did change the -40 thing also. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your Okay, try my method. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. If they are closed, check the primaries. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. What I can't explain is why your TPS is acting so randomly. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. to. It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. That's what you're seeing. I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . check out the. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. when things aren't working and this provides just that. Please help. The RPM would increase for no reason. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. There is no real mystery here. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even Please give this a try and let us know how it works! :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. I'm happy to walk you through what is required. I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19210007.html, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.3128#post83128, If this is your first visit, be sure to And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. Comp. Laptop Access I tried adjusting my IAC up to 10deg in both directions with no change. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. Im thinking a faulty TPS. That is the IAC hold position. It is a common one. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. If you find that adding 5-10 degrees of advance helps then it's time to do reconfirm TDC. It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. TP range is normal goes up to about 90% with throttle pedal to the floor. 90% of time with engine hot. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. No air should be able to pass. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. 2. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. What would cause the idle to faulter like that? As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. Turned it off and on again. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. Price Point: $$$. I installed Holley Sniper on three other Mavericks here in Brazil and the problem also exists.I did not make any changes to the parameters, only on Target AFR and the correction on the Idle Speed Curve chart. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . The window you saw in the image above pops up. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. The engine runs beautifully, with perfect idle at 650 RPM, but every now and then I hear the IAC give a sort of "snap" and the idle is at 1200 RPM. See these. I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. The second thing to realize is that even after you get it just right, you need to keep an eye on the IAC number and reset the idle if it gets outside the 2-8% range when idling when warm. Then your low idle problem will go away. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. He has walked me through every question Iv. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Enjoy! My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. What an amazing site you have here. So you installed your Holley Sniper. Great work, expert! In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. datsun sniper efi Holley RetroBright This 1974 Datsun 620 Bulletside Cruises With The Help Of Sniper EFI Bradley Iger 01/13/2023 features Latest News sweepstakes 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes Gen III Hemi Enter To Win Holley's 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes For Your Chance To Win A 600+ Horsepower 392 Stroker! i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. Holley Sniper EFI Troubleshooting Mudford Garage 8.6K subscribers 38K views 3 years ago My Bronco with Holley Sniper EFI was running poorly. Second--even in the HP and Dominator systems where a fuel pressure sensor can be dalogged and displayed, the fuel pressure is not fed back into the algorithm. Jump on board now! Well you were right air was entering from another source. The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). Thanks for the info Chris. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. To be honest, you sound like an ideal candidate for Sniper ECU ignition timing control. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. For the first couple of drives it was running well, Sniper EFI was working exactly as advertised. Short drives is fine then it'll I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. We do that but most places don't. Any idea's? The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn?

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